Galap a gogo: 12th May: Cusco city tour and Inca ruins

Richard was ok-ish so long as he was resting in bed and urged me to let him sleep and go sightseeing with Louise & Ian. Hotel Los Portales suited us very well and they did what they could to help their poorly guest. The buildings in Cusco are a blend of Spanish colonial architecture and Inca archeological sites. We started in Qorikancha, or Temple of the Sun, opposite our hotel. Something that I found absolutely fascinating about the Inca architecture was the huge granite stones which were minutely shaped so that they could link together like lego bricks, without the need for mortar to stick them together. The Inca used techniques that were mindful of the regular earthquakes in the area, such as the trapezoidal shape of the doorways. The Spanish colonists built the Church of Santo Domingo on the site of this Inca temple, incorporating the Inca stonework into the structure of their new colonial building. Major earthquakes severely damaged the church, but the Inca stone walls, built out of huge, tightly-interlocking blocks of stone remained standing. The interior walls were once covered in gold but sadly the Spanish stripped this away. Next we moved outside the city centre to visit the Inca archeological sites in the outskirts. First was Tambomachay, or Temple of Water, due to the existence of two aqueducts that carry water throughout the year. At 4000m above sea level this is the highest I have ever been, or will ever be I'm sure. (To give you some comparison, Everest Base Camp is 5,380 m). It was tough walking uphill in the heat and rarefied atmosphere and I thought what a good job it was that Richard hadn't joined us. Second set of ruins was the Temple of Mother Earth, where Ian was worryingly fascinated with the altar on which virgins were sacrificed. Last and most formidable of the temple ruins was Sacsayhuaman (pronounced sexy woman, which we all find worth a giggle). It was an Inca citadel of massive proportions, most likely with ceremonial function.

We travelled back to Cusco city centre and the main square Plaza de Armas, which is a pretty place, buzzing with life. Here we toured the Basilica Cathedral built by the Spanish conquistadors, a grand building with a theatrical feel. The cathedral contains some important works of art, including a painting by Mark Zapata, who created a unique "Last Supper" in which the main dish is roast guinea pig (Peru's favourite meal). Opinion is divided as to whether this was merely an adaptation to local customs or a mickey-take. Despite the fact that I would have loved to join Ian & Louise for a late, lazy lunch in one of the restaurant balconies overlooking the square, at this stage I also had to retire back to the hotel with a gippy tummy. Richard and I didn't surface until the next day.